the road is life.

YouthInAsia

2009-10-02T04:23:00.001+09:00

Saturday, January 24, 2009 at 5:11am

It’s been 18 days of wandering around the same country, the same culture, the same chaos. It’s a new year but not much else has changed. Second impressions have quickly progressed from nostalgia, to excitement, to ... Nothing. An odd sensation, for sure - realizing you feel most comfortable surrounded by neon signs you can’t read, conversations you can’t understand, store names you can’t pronounce. It’s a bit of a topsy-turvy feeling that shifts, flips, twists and shakes up everything you thought you knew about yourself and the world. You start to feel a little disconcerted, too complacent, almost too at home amongst everything unfamiliar ...

And youth in Asia, eh? With Korea, there’s the critics – the “What are you running from?” guys, the “Hopping on the Korea bandwagon, I see?” people, and the “Why don’t you give it a go in Canada?” mentality. And you know what? You’re all right. It probably is unoriginal. It probably is career suicide. It probably is some form of procrastination. All duly noted.

Or maybe we’re the smart ones – doing whatever’s in our power to suffocate the urge to be sensibly irresponsible, somehow still being mature enough to acknowledge accountability for our own lives. To dodge the “mid-life crisis” we all seem destined to experience by confronting it when we’re merely mid-way. To nip it in the bud. To live now, for fear of rolling out of bed one day at fifty and wondering when it all will start. A solution before the problem. Maybe.

Time is always the best judge.

In the meantime, there’s this:
The Flaming Mountains, a Gobi desert range over 50 miles long that glows various shades of red and orange in the daylight. There’s desolate, windswept pockets of Kazakhstan, ghost towns full of people grasping and clinging to any ounce of modern civilization. There’s stretches of derelict road with lush green scenery and nothing but wild herds to dot the horizon.

There’s a whole world out there.

The more planet I see, the more panic – there really isn’t enough time [or means] to see the whole damn thing …Life is short. Do your thing.

And remember: “Happiness must be shared.” – Alexander Supertramp [Into the Wild]

Susie Mowers
Seoul, South Korea
January 2009
Written about 8 months ago ·

Comment
Julie Diamond
Excellent excellent excellent! Well said Schnookums.
January 24 at 10:26am · Delete

Pam Ginger Hamill
youre on a great start to see whole planetbe happy doing what you want to doit is, however, the one and only chance you have to be susie mowers!♥ ... Read More(never stop writing)
January 24 at 12:53pm · Delete

Jennifer Healy
Susie! This was amazing!!! So well written...you must be an English teacher....I hope you are getting everything out of EVERY experience possible!! Cheers to living life!! xx Jenn
January 25 at 4:11pm · Delete

Derek Stefanovich
hey susie your life seems more interesting then anybody i know,the things u do and the places you go so amazing,well written and well said!
April 15 at 2:16pm · Delete
Write a comment...

newton's third law

2008-09-01T23:01:00.001+09:00

Thursday, May 1, 2008 at 8:10pm Edit Note Delete
Yesterday was a bit of a rough day.

There was the frustrating:
Teaching kids who are ignoring you;

the heartbreaking:
Witnessing an unfortunate situation and being powerless to change it in one week;

the gross:
Swatting ants, beetles, & mosquitoes off my face in my sleep;

the uncomfortable:
My "Mama Tica" talking about me to her friend in Spanish;

the painful:
The 18th consecutive shower with water so cold, it hurts;…

And the just plain annoying:
The disoriented rooster that "cock-a-doodle-doos" outside my window every hour, on the hour, the whole night through.

And then, today:
A heart-shaped post-it note with a "muchas gracias", & an email address.
Lunch at a Peruvian restaurant under an unbelievably clear blue sky.
A random Tico playing a harp under a palm tree while kids danced and chased little rabbits.
Some "When are you coming home?"s and a couple "love you"s.

When things are bad, they can always be worse.And then sometimes they're so good, they can barely be better.

For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction ...

monkey do, eh?

2008-05-02T09:23:00.004+09:00

10:24pm Tuesday, Apr 29
The second day I was in Costa Rica, I participated in an all-Spanish group activity called "eschalda, defrente, cambio!" [my Spanish is off, sorry]. Anyways, I was told "eschalda" means "back", that d-word means "front", and "cambio" means change - and was left to figure out on my own what happened when someone yelled "Cambio!". It turned into one big embarrassing stunt of "monkey see, monkey do" - though a monkey could've done better. And little did I know then that this one activity would set the tone for my entire experience here ...

This whole time, I've been relying on observation as my primary source of information. I'm still trying to figure out what the hell is going on, and I'm beginning to see that I will never understand the Costa Rican way of life. Everything just seems backwards, inside out. Cultural differences can only account for so much ... the rest just seems like bad judgment, or, "monkey business".

Forget about great ideas with no follow-through. Forget about trying to change things that are working quite perfectly. Forget about taking two full weeks to schedule ONE lesson. Forget, even, about inviting a foreigner to come teach when there are no students to teach. All of these things are a little frustrating (and yes, not very logical), but they're things that can be overlooked. What I can't seem to get past is the totally defective education system: like I said, CEI is a school for kids that failed or were kicked out of regular high schools. But instead of receiving the extra attention or discipline they seem to require, they're rewarded with this incredible level of freedom, and granted full responsibility over their own education. What they are taught has no structure, apparent objective, or cohesiveness. If they feel like leaving, they leave; if they don't do their work, that's okay, too. They listen to their iPods while the teacher talks, they talk while the teacher talks. What 15-year-old delinquent, in his/her right mind, would, given the choice, choose to do schoolwork?? It just seems like good kids are being cheated, and innocently spiraling further into trouble without a decent education. If this were Canada, I'd tell them it's wrong, all wrong - but this isn't Canada. This is Costa Rica. And it's not wrong, to Costa Ricans. Part of respecting the culture is simply recognizing your place within it (and the behaviour expected from you in that position). So I just watch, listen, observe ... and do what I can with my 40-minute time frame. It's actually a bit like staring at a wreck on the highway from the safety of your own car - you feel helpless, passive, and guilty. And curious about how it got that way. Likewise, after being so idle, and watching troubled kids receive a poor education ... you're, well, crushed.

And then there's the trust thing. The first week I was told that "No one trusts anyone" in San Jose. I laughed - I thought it was a joke. Turns out, "Trust no one" is practically a motto here. Now the bars on the windows make even more sense, and I guess offer some strange, foreign reassurance. But in university I learned about a social-psychological phenomenon called "Reactance Theory" - and its premise has stuck with me for years. Basically, it said that when people feel their freedom to choose an action is threatened, they're likely to react by performing the "forbidden" behaviour (thus proving that their free will has not been compromised). If you don't believe me, here's proof:"Pennebaker and Sanders (1976) put one of two signs on college bathroom walls. One read ‘Do not write on these walls under any circumstances’ while the other read ‘Please don’t write on these walls.’ A couple of weeks later, the walls with the ‘Do not write on these walls under any circumstances’ notice had far more graffiti on them."It just really makes you wonder what came first in San Jose - the barred windows, or the crime?

So consider this: People have commented that my travel pictures make it seem like I'm "living the dream". And after seeing the breathtaking views and unbelievable scenery Costa Rica has to offer, I'd almost say those people are right. But "living the dream" is actually the complete opposite of travelling, sometimes - it's staying in Canada, where the streets are safe, your neighbours are trusted, doors are unlocked, and education is standardized & fair.

For 6 more days I'll reluctantly mimic the Ticos and the Costa Rican way of life. And in 6 days when I'm back on Canadian soil, I'll remind myself that there really is no place like home ...

every little ting

2008-05-02T09:23:00.001+09:00

1:51pm Wednesday, Apr 23 Edit Note Delete
The minute I walked in the school I knew something was different. Their pants hung a little lower, their hair was a little longer, and their attitudes were high. Turns out, I was right – CEI (Centro Educatio Interactiva) is a school for kids who have rebelled against everything about schools – the rules, the uniforms, the punishments. With good reason, CEPPA wants to implement its peace program here. I figured we’d come up with some more creative, cooperative, fun interactive activities, but my director insists we stick to the original plan – teaching them a “feel good”, “love each other”, “Pavarotti & friends” song in English. This should go over well – teaching a lame song to students who are only there because they hate school in the first place. The kids are amazing, but I sense a sing-a-long just ain’t their thing (and so does their teacher). Suggestions are welcome (as are miracles).

But like I said, these kids are amazing. In a class debate about capital punishment, one student was getting a little worked up, so the other students hugged her and broke out into a spontaneous chorus of Bob Marley’s “Three Little Birds” [“don’t worry, about a thing … ‘cause every little ting, is gonna be all right …”]. The fact that she is 17 and that passionate about anything is one thing – but to be able to express her frustration so accurately in her second language is nothing less than impressive (as is the 12-year old grade nine student who speaks Spanish, English, Italian and Japanese. Whew.) And there’s something awfully inspiring about kids singing some Bob Marley in a foreign classroom – I don’t quite know what it is, but I hope you all get the chance to hear it someday. It proved that in Costa Rica, there’s obviously a sense of community that we should focus on expanding, not inventing.

If I’ve learned anything from this experience so far, it’s that the biggest problems sometimes have the smallest solutions. A little bit of cooperation in a classroom can drastically reduce violence on the streets. Really.

But it hasn’t all been “fun and games” here (to say the very least). As I mentioned before, living in a homestay is incredibly (and surprisingly) trying. The other night I was sitting in on a lecture at a university in Heredia and didn’t get home till about 9pm … and apparently had my hostess worried sick the whole time. This is problematic on sooooo many levels:No idea I was obligated to tell her where I was …[But rest assured, your “mother” IS always with you wherever you go]…No idea how to find/use/pay for a payphone. No idea how to say “I am going to be late” had I been able to find/use a payphone.The Spanish silent treatment was my punishment … so awkward it had me actually appreciating the solitude of my cockroach-infested pad on the weekend.

And solitude is great – until you can feel every set of eyes on you as you walk down the street alone. In different circumstances, it’d be flattering – but picture bars on every window, dilapidated buildings, barbed-wire fences and glass-littered sidewalks …. and it’s just plain frightening.

And so, big cheers to: generous people from Georgia, 50+ year olds who offer great conversation, sweet coladas on the sandy beach, and a couple of motivational Bob Marley notes.

Never underestimate the infinite importance of those little things …
Keep ‘em coming, and every little ting is gonna be alright.

nightmares on avenida diaz

2008-05-02T09:20:00.001+09:00

11:43am Saturday, Apr 19
¿Que tal?

What is going on? I'm starting to realize that when you travel alone, time when you should become more self aware turns into time when you're at your most vulnerable. To what, exactly, I don't know ... but it sure is an unusual feeling.

I'm in Jaco for the weekend, a beach town 3hrs west of San Jose.

There's a 'little' alligator 10m away from my cabin (as if 'little' disguises the fact it's a flesh-eating beast that will most surely hunt me down in the middle of the night).

There's a decapitated cockroach on my bathroom floor (my doing, thank you). Its presence isn't unusual, my killing it is. It's the antennas that are freaky - they slowly scan the room like radar, obviously trying to pin down your exact location so they can make their next move. Buggers.

The first English-speaking person I approached turned out to have half a face. No kidding.

And yesterday when I was leaving a patio, my server said, 'See you later Susie!'. 'Susie'? Did I give him my name? I don't think I gave him my name. No, definitely not. Passport? Check. 'Sweetie'? No. WTF?

So, yeah - a week in relative solitude leaves you susceptible to the worst danger possible - doubting your own perception of reality. Maybe friends are good for more than just companionship - for confirmation of things you think you saw/did/heard/felt.

Hmph.

Hasta luego.

pura vida

2008-05-02T09:18:00.000+09:00

11:35am Thursday, Apr 17

Life in San Jose is slow. Really slow. And compared to the excitement, anticipation and break-neck speed of getting here, it seems even slower. It´s eerily peaceful - but then again, peace is the whole reason I´m here.

Tuesday I started my volunteering at Fundacion CEPPA - Centre Etudiates Pas Paix. It´s an organization in Latin America that integrates the Canadian-based Alternatives to Violence Program to ¨transform power¨and encourage creative conflict resolution. Don´t let their zen-like goals fool you - the organization has significantly reduced violence in high schools around the world and has made many countries a litttle more peaceful. Gandhi will be pleased.

Finding your way around San Jose, however, isn´t nearly as peaceful. Street signs are useless as Costa Ricans use landmarks to direct them where they want to go - including incredibly unreliable landmarks like the ¨perro blanco¨`[white dog], and a fig tree that was removed in 1995. It´s easy for me to get lost in Canada, but in San Jose, my fate is inevitable...

As scary as not knowing the language may be, it also makes for some pretty hilarious situations. Yesterday, I took a 20 minute walk to Colegio Mexico with Stephanie, whose English proficiency is limited to ¨Let´s go!¨and öhmygod.¨It was basically 20 full minutes of her asking me questions in Spanish, me being embarrassed at my ignorance, and us both laughing. [Laughter really is universal.] And here´s what we learned:

¿cual es su nombre? [what is your name?]¨

monday, tuesday, wednesday, thursday, friday, saturday, sunday¨

Trying to memorize landmarks and directions in a foreign country while holding a conversation in a language you don´t speak is ... impossible.

Also: Nothing matters [in a good way]. Don´t know how to get home? It´s ok, let´s get lost! We can´t teach our program because the high school teachers are on strike. Muy bien, it´s ok! And living in a homestay is awkward, challenging, and a little bit boring ... but it´s ok, too.

Slow motion. A rooster for an alarm clock. No phone, no internet. No conversation. No matter. Muy bien.

¿pura vida? Si.

thanks, that was fun

2008-03-11T01:18:00.002+09:00

Kahm-sahm-nee-dah. Arigatou. Khop khun kha. Xie Xie.

It’s so easy to say “thank you” in Asia, so hard to say just how thankful, from here …
But here’s my best go at some embarrassingly overdue words of gratitude:

to here:
Whatever you do, don’t be deceived. Traveling isn’t always adventurous – sometimes it’s the exact opposite: inaction. What you may claim courageous I confess was cowardly – I hightailed it across the world, while you, the more sensible, remained in Canada & fought for your rightful spot in the rat race. Give credit only where credit is due, etc, etc …An uncompromising desire to see the world is quite selfish, really. Selfish I may be, but ignorant I’m not – I recognize that my ability to “get up and go” is solely reliant on the fact that I had people who didn’t share the same foolishness …the fact that I had people & places to come back to. I had a safety net on the other side of the Pacific… which means all the world. So kudos to you that stuck around. THANK YOU for giving me something to come home to.

to there:
Funny things happen in foreign countries – you immediately find yourself feeling connected & comfortable with complete strangers based on one common bond – the fact that none of you belong. It’s a type of camaraderie that can never really be replicated. And what’s also funny are the “categories” that always seem to kinda automatically develop: there’s the “same time, same place” kinda friends, the “hometown proud” friends [people from the same province and/or country who are immediately compatible because they’ve heard of the Blue Jays and miss maple syrup almost as much as you do] …and then there’s the rare people you meet that make you change your way of thinking altogether, and make you realize you’ve been doing it wrong all along. You learn about places you’ve never even heard of and lifestyles you’ve never even imagined, and I’d like to think you’re better for it. If not, why travel? So to these, and all of the people I met in Korea – THANK YOU.

to: there
love, here
To everyone that wrote a letter, sent a card, sent a package or made a phone call to the other side of the pond … For proving that out of sight isn’t outta mind – THANK YOU.

…and everywhere in between:
To one boy with the patience of a saint – THANK YOU.

And, in closing, thank you to the wise man who once said this:
“There are three types of people in the world: Those who make things happen, those who watch things happen, and those who, old and gray, ask, ‘What happened?’”

Whatever you want, make it happen.

Gracias.

my toronto star article

2007-11-08T12:20:00.000+09:00

http://www.thestar.com/article/274296

heart & seoul

2007-11-06T01:29:00.000+09:00

I'm no budding philanthropist, but well, you know, we all wanna change the world ...

"Let the world change you, and you can
change the world."
~ Che Guevara

Let
The world
Change
You
Change
The world

One year ago, I wanted a change. I never expected this.

One year later, I bow to say hello, goodbye & thank you. I give and receive everything with two hands.

I don't own a single fork.

I like dried fish and pig intestines - just not together.
I think fried squid smells good.

I've formed and maintained friendships without saying any words at all.

I laugh at the irony of family sending gifts that were "Made in Korea". I eat corn on my pizza with a side of pickles.

I think ovens and dryers are sooooo 2006. I don't call a meal complete unless it includes kimchi. I fall asleep on the subway with my purse in front me.

I'll never again consider Niagara-Toronto as "long-distance dating".

I forget what it's like to drive a car.

I know that cucumbers are the secret weapon against massive, throbbing Soju hangovers. I think 3,000W for a beer is expensive.

I know my capabilities, and my limits.

Before I came here, somebody cautioned, "I hope you're not going over there to find yourself." I was terrified because I was.

And I did.

In one month, I'll be in Vietnam & on the beaches of Thailand.
In 3 months I'll pack my life into two suitcases and head back to Canada. I know where I'll go and who I'll see.
I'll try to find something to do.
Something I love.
Something like this.

the b-sides

2007-11-02T01:23:00.000+09:00

2+ months of rain gives even the busiest people too much time to think, think, think. And that's what I've been doing. My apologies - I've been told I should be letting my fingers hit the keyboard to relay my mind's findings, but it seems as though everything that was once mysterious to us has become so normal it's barely worth mentioning. I've developed so much of a routine over here that I forget people might still be slightly interested in the daily goings-on SoKo. I'm runnin' out of ideas to make these blogs even the least bit interesting, so this one's in a soundtrack form. We'll call it a b-side, I guess. It's an exclusive, but it's probably dull. It might be a hit, it might be a bag of shit. In any case, its as close as I can bring you to "the big picture" about life in a little city on the other side of the world ...here are the tracks:

1. Porcelain - Moby
This one has absolutely no significance whatsoever...Just thought it'd be a cool intro.

2. Can't Stop - Red Hot Chili Peppers
If you can actually decipher what Kiedis is saying, you end up hearing some pretty meaningful lyrics:
Choose not a life of imitation / Distant cousin to the reservation ...Pair that up with a quote from the movie The Beach: "I just feel like everyone tries to do something different, but you always wind up doing the same damn thing"...and you'll have the reason the majority of foreigners are currently residing in South Korea. We're all in search of something a little more unique, a little more beautiful, a little crazier. Whatever reservations we had, we left 'em at home. This world we love / the trains we hop / to be part of the wave / can't stop .... But travelling does quickly morph into an addiction that is unstoppable, or at least not easily satisfied. You end up with an incessant desire to see more, do more, try more - because the chance may never come again...

3. Tripping Billies - Dave Matthews Band
The chance may never come again. So, Eat drink and be merry / for tomorrow we die. Carpe Diem, etc, etc. So why would you care / to get out of this place? I can see how some people never leave Korea ... It's a laid back lifestyle, an extension of university disguised as the start of a professional career. What's not to love? But to every thing there is a season, and I think for a lotta people a stint in Korea is best short-lived. Life is short, but sweet for certain - and a prolonged stay in SoKo is guaranteed to sweetly but significantly shorten any life span.

4. Inaudible Melodies - Jack Johnson
"Life goes by so fast that if you don't stop to look around, you might miss it." - Ferris Bueller
So slow down, everyone you're movin' too fast ... One of the things Korea teaches you is to appreciate the little things. Like A&W Root Beer. And lime juice. And peanut butter. And it teaches ya to slow down & pay careful attention to detail - especially with the language. Most Korean/English words end in a vowel - E-Mart is "E-Marta", Homeplus is "Homeplusa", etc. but I can't even count how many times a Korean has repeated back to me what I'd swear was the same thing I just said. Our biggest trouble has been our subway stop: We're at Bojeong [pronounced Bo-chung], but there's another stop on our same line called Bokjeong [Bok-chung]. If you don't practice accurate intonation and pronunciation you can end up on the other side of the city staring at a W58000 cab fare [or in a frantic sprint for your life when you realize you don't have that much money]. Nothing is more frightening than being yelled at in a language you don't speak. Nothing.

I wish they could believe in things that never made the screen ... I hope everybody gets the chance to experience another culture at some point [and not just as a tourist]. See the parts that are never shown. Resist traveling the world only to check into a hotel with "all the comforts of home." [that's The Beach, too]. Live, and learn. Compassion is the route to social justice. Patience is probably in there, too. So yeah, slow down, look around. Listen.

5. A Long December - Counting Crows
In retrospect last December was a long one - last Christmas, a teeny bit tainted by the looming fear of the great unknown ... But that's not why this song is here. It's solely because of this line: I can't remember all the times I've tried to tell myself to hold on to these moments as they pass ...We're approaching the 8-month mark yet New Year's still seems so recent in our minds: Being introduced to strangers from around the world who would soon become some of our best friends. It's no cliche - time really does fly when you're having fun. But just about every foreigner you meet over here has an eventual expiry date, and you gradually become accustomed to casual goodbyes [including those uber awkward "re-goodbyes"]. So, like the sentimental cheeseball you are, you try to hold on to the moment, because trying to slow down time is about as easy as successfully clenching a fist full of sand ...And the days go by so fast.

6. Mushaboom - Feist
Alright, so if we can't hold on to every moment, we can collect 'em. We'll collect the moments one by one / I guess that's how the future's done ... Likewise, my favorite author wrote, "You look at where you're going and where you are and it never makes sense, but then you look back and a pattern seems to emerge. And if you project forward from that pattern, then sometimes you can come up with something." Gather the moments, save 'em, reflect on 'em, and devise a game plan. Gotcha. I guess that's how the future's done ...

7. Here Comes the Sun - The Beatles
This one is more of a tease, than anything. Here comes the sun in South Korea can be likened to "The Boy Who Cried Wolf" ...It's been raining since mid-June yet every Korean swears it will end in "two weeks." Always two weeks. Julie and I are now just crossin' our fingers for one more month. Never underestimate how much rain can take out of a person [especially one who is as sun-obsessed as myself]. On the plus side, we did exchange our free umbrella for a bigger, better free umbrella ...And we're still so much in awe of the freakin' generosity over here. The other night when Julie & I tried to leave a restaurant, the owner forced us to sit down to give us free dessert. It's a tough life over here, really.

8. Me and Julio Down By the Schoolyard - Paul Simon
The "six-month funk" isn't a myth - it's true. The six-month mark more often than not indicates the mid-way point of a Korean contract, and it's the time when people kinda find themselves in a bit of a homesick groove. For me, the 6-month point marked the mid-way point between the perpetual vacation that is South Korea and the rest of my career. If Korea is a temporary suspension of real responsibility, the 6-month mark is a reminder that the clock is tickin', and facing the "real world" is a chore that's inevitably creeping closer and closer each day. I'm on my way, I don't know where I'm goin' ...Where am I going? What am I doing? And why do I have a sudden craving for a Corona?

9. Don't Panic - Coldplay
Don't panic - check. Great advice, but not why this song's included here. It's these lines: We live in a beautiful world ... Yeah everybody here's got someone to lean on ...We do live in a beautiful world, but sometimes it has it's ugly parts, even [especially?] in Korea. The words "lean on me" are more than just an offer - they're a necessity. Having a friend to share the experience with really makes the difference between insanity and composure in a foreign country. It can be sooo frustrating trying to communicate in a language you don't speak, and when things go wrong - despite your best charade performance - sometimes it's just really reassuring to have someone there who feels the anxiety, too. My advice to people considering teaching in South Korea: Grab a friend before you grab your plane ticket.

And that's all she wrote ...[since julie just informed me that i've become her sappy self, i think it's about time to end this thing, save my dignity].

Keep on rockin' in the free world [read: stay south of the north].

Peace, love & hugs.

where the heart is

2007-11-02T00:58:00.000+09:00

As promised, here is yet another update from yours truly. In a half-assed attempt to give you all another lil' glimpse into life thus far in Korea while sparing you from another monotonous memo, I've tried to condense this blog into a short n' sweet Q&A. Most are questions people have been asking me since I arrived here, and some are questions I've been wondering the answers to, myself. Hopefully, you'll all find interest in my episodes [if only slight] ... And in either case, I'd assume you'll all feel a) completely relieved; or b) utterly disappointed, once you learn that my "foreign" excursion has been much more familiar than you'd think ...Anyway, here goes:

Have you learned any Korean?
Sadly, no. Aside from a few basic phrases ["hello/goodbye", "thank you", "excuse me"], I'm embarrassed to say that my Korean is really lacking. The thing is, you don't need to learn Korean. The majority of signs are in Korean and English, most cab drivers understand simple words, and all of the teachers at our school are bilingual. And I realize that sounds completely careless of me - to be immersed in a culture and not feel the need to study the language - but rest assured, I'm not as ignorant as you think. While there is no need to learn, there is a desire. I've been practicing key phrases like "Would you like to go for a drink?" [Sool, mah-she-ruh, gal-gah-yo?] and "It's raining!" [Pi ga-wayo!] c/o of my trustworthy [but incredibly flawed] "Instant Korean" book. Turns out the only thing "instant" about this book is the amount of time it takes for you to make a fool outta yourself - I thought I had successfully mastered the phrase "See you later!" only to find out that it meant "Let's run away together!" I really wish I had known that before saying it to my 8-year-old students, and I'm preparing to have a lotta explaining to do to their parents ...
I must admit though, one of the benefits of not speaking the language is avoiding those dreadful talks with the parents. As I've said before, English schools in Korea are run as businesses, and parents have tiresome complaints that they're "not getting their money's worth". And while I feel tremendously guilty about forcing someone else to explain my supposed errors, avoiding arguments with parents has me feeling quite relieved. God bless monolingualism. [that's a word, I promise.]

Aside from the coarse Korean, I have learned a few other things ... Among those:1) A little goes a long way. I cannot even recall a time or place when I've been the recipient of so many random acts of kindness. I'm not sure if it's the foreign mystery about me that appeals to Koreans, or if it's their general good nature - regardless, I have never come across so many kind people in such a short period of time. Even with the language barrier - or perhaps, because of it - people are inclined to sacrifice their time or money to help a stranger. Last month, for ex, Julie and I were standing on the corner [no comments, please] in the pouring rain and a Korean gave us his umbrella. I literally tried to chase him in the rain, but he ran off - leaving us grateful, dumbstruck, and dry. It's still very overwhelming and refreshing [the kindness] and I hope - if nothing else - it's the one thing that I bring back to Canada with me.... And I hope it's contagious.

In line with that ... 2) Ignorance is not bliss. In fact, it's just downright disrespectful, and dangerous. Koreans are very superstitious and if you don't do your research, you can wind up really offending the entire culture. If you pour your own drink, you're cursed. If someone else's drink is empty and you don't pour it for them, you're rude. If you "cheers" your boss and you hold your drink higher than his, you're fired [exaggeration, but it IS a great disrespect to do so]. And, if you are Korean, and your name is ever written in red, you are doomed. So imagine my remorse when I showed a student a memo I had made which said "Happy Birthday Eric!" in bright, red pen. In doing so, I had apparently assured that his "birthday" would consequently be his deathday... Whoops.

3) Never underestimate the impact of a hand-written letter. It can turn an entire day around.

4) 6000 miles is too far away to be from anyone when they're sad, including and especially family. Granted, no great experience comes without some sort of sacrifice, but I would be lying if I said there hadn't been a fleeting thought of abandoning this all to be at home, if only for a day. In retrospect it seems irrational, but in troubling times, sensible. Home is and always will be where the heart is.

What do you miss the most?
Aside from the obvious - Western bathrooms! In Korea, it's not unlikely to have to leave the bar/restaurant, toilet paper in tote, and walk to the nearest rest-room, which is sometimes on the bottom floor of an apartment building. It was weird to me at first, but then again, carrying toilet paper through the streets of Seoul likely isn't on everyone's daily itinerary. It actually kinda scares me to think that in 8 months, NOT having to do this will be weird. Hmph.

What don't you miss about Canada?
The strangeness. I don't mean that as Canada being strange, but just the people within Canada being strange to one another, at times. I adore Canada, but after experiencing Korea, Canadians are really withdrawn, in comparison. There's an air of scepticism in Canada that you don't find in Korea, and, like I said before, that's part of what makes this experience so refreshing. Something about Korea screams with benevolence - like it's engineered to be that way. The Seoul subway system, especially, makes communication inevitable by design - it consists of two parallel columns facing inward each other, and what usually results is a sort of "accidental" communication that lends itself to intimacy and instant friendship. It's amazing, when you think about it ......

As is this entire experience ...Is this for real?

Last month we had visitors from Laurier [yay Siqcourtney!] and this month marks the long-awaited arrival of a certain someone ...The going was good and it's getting even better.

I'm just trying to decipher reality here while waiting for someone to pinch me ...

In the meantime, in classic Kerouac fashion, I'll "lean forward to the next adventure beneath the skies..."

the 'f' words

2007-11-02T00:46:00.000+09:00

As the title suggests, this blog is dedicated to everything 'f' worthy of writing about: Fractures, farewells, food poisoning and first adventures. And I do understand it's foolish to formulate a blog at 2am after your 24th birthday festivities - but hey, it's only fitting, right?

First things first: le fracture. Someone once informed me the word "fracture" comes from the French word meaning "to propel onself drunkingly down a flight of hidden stairs" [or I may be fibbing]. But for certain, the only thing worse than fracturing your foot is fracturing your foot and having your friends think you're faking the injury to legitimately forfeit your turn at karaoke. And perhaps the only thing worse than going to a hospital in a foreign country with a fractured foot, is going to a hospital with a fractured foot and having the doctor tell you to "sprint". The actual conversation was as follows:

doctor: What do you think?
susie: I think my foot is broken.
doctor: Yes?
susie: Yes.
doctor: I think, maybe, treatment is sprint.
susie: Sprint? Like, run?
doctor: Yes, sprint. Now?
susie: Now?
doctor: Yes. Tonight. I think maybe 5 days.

Couple that conversation with a painkiller injection in the "far end" followed by a firm smack and you can imagine my fright. Apparently I was suffering from foolish foreigner syndrome, too, 'cause when that figurative linguistic fence was finally removed I realized he meant "splint". Funny, real funny. But gotta hand it to the docs - the fracture's finished and one might even say I'm "footloose and fancy free". [groan]

Moving forward to the farewells...The first farewell is for our boss, Mike. On Monday we received word that he'll be leaving us because he is, quite simply, fed up. Mike's value to us and the company is priceless - aside from being generous, patient and considerate, he's one of the few Korean directors at our English school who actually speaks English. His departure comes as a total shock and we were - as you might've guessed - flabbergasted. We figure our "foreign teacher meetings" will now be conducted entirely in Korean, which automatically facilitates a cooperative, communicative environment ... no? We're losing our friend and our liason to ignored, futile frustrations, and it's left us all a little fearful of our own futures with the school. If you truthfully wanna try to empathize and imagine our frustration with Mike's departure, consider your annoyance with all these 'f' words at this point ... And then rest assured that's but a mere fraction of our anger.

One farewell is one too many, but - like all other things in Korea - the first is never the last. Our second farewell is reserved for something equally close to our hearts - the Fish & Grill. For those of you who don't already know, F&G is the dive across the street from our apartment where we've spent many a weeknight [especially FRIDAYS] feasting on kimchi, flooding our livers, reluctantly accepting freebies, and - without fail -feeling floored by the gratitude shown by an 800W tip recipient. A little does go a long way. But one night late last week after fully indulging in some Soju, Julie and I thought it'd be a fantastic idea to order ourselves some mussels. It wasn't. A night we'd soon forgotten morphed into a 2-day stint we likely never will - turns out the alcohol couldn't quite decontaminate our toxic and delicious food, so we were left to fend for ourselves against the fiercest bout of food poisioning we've ever experienced. Let's recap: At this point, F&G has spiked my drink with fish fins, acquainted us with some highly unfavorable [read: sketchy] folk, and has now successfully given us food poisoning. Our reasoning concludes trips to F&G will be much less frequent in the future. [Who are we kidding?]. Oh beloved Fish & Grill, you are forgiven.

What will not so easily be forgotten, however, is the unfriendly nature of our pseudo-boss [the wife of our Director], who forced Julie to work in her frail & feverishstate, fresh from the hospital. Her lack of sympathy only furthered the already disintegrating fondness we have for her, and escalated the existing friction. On the flipside, thanks be to fellow faculty members who rallied around a malfunctioning teacher in the face of flaunted authority... Our staff really is amazing. "Chincha."

There is no fault to be found with Korea though, really. I can't say I've ever had as many consecutive fun days in my entire life. And things are only looking up - this past weekend our friend Gavin finally arrived and did us proud, as he fearlessly injested the Korean favorite fluid [Soju]. Soju down, our final task will be to find him a flawless Asian female ...

Gavin's 2007 forecast: "This is going to be a good year."

And with that, I think this facking blog is finally finished.

Happy February, all.

dispelling the myths

2007-11-02T00:43:00.000+09:00

The subtraction of stereotypes in any cultural scenario leaves you with nothing but sincerity. And though I’m still a social rookie, here it is: The truth about Korea [as I see it, anyways].

1. Koreans are rude. [false]
Before I came here, I was warned about the typically “hostile nature” of Koreans – advice from even the most reliable sources had me expecting to be shoved, spit on, or mugged [or all three, simultaneously]. But nothing could be further from the truth, honestly. We’ve been here for a month, and so far we’ve had Korean boys walk in the middle of Seoul traffic to translate an address to our driver, we have yet to make it through one meal without being offered more food or to join another table for a drink, and we’ve been given gifts just about everywhere we go. It’s pretty damn refreshing when we are confirmed fools for our assumptions. Like the driver whom we assumed was coming to the back of the bus to yell at us for drinking, or the fella at the bar who yelled at me when I grabbed my jacket – one gave us oranges; the other returned the lip gloss and change that had fallen outta my pocket. It’s surprising, and encouraging. And generosity is contagious.

2. Koreans are bad drivers.
If “bad” means occasionally running red lights, disregarding all lines on the road and carving a random path, and going in 100km/hr spurts on residential roads – then yeah, Koreans are bad drivers. Or we could judge this one on reaction time and maneuvers – ‘cause whether it’s a scooter or a pickup full of caged dogs, the stuff popping out in front of you turns almost every casual drive into an obstacle course. Driving in Korea is unsteady, and driving well is a talent. So reckless, or responsible drivers – your call.And to be honest, I favor the reckless drivers over the lunatics, any day. Spend 20 minutes in a crazy cabbie in Korea and you’ll understand. One cabbie hunched over his steering wheel and cackled like a maniac; another turned around and licked his chops at Julie after inquiring about our husbands in Canada. Picture Anthony Hopkins in Silence of the Lambs, and multiply it. By a thousand. And be thankful we both invested in imitation wedding rings.

3. Koreans are hard workers. [‘tis true]
“Hard worker” is an understatement. Until last week, I thought our school was the only education our students got on a daily basis. Turns out Reading Town is the school where the kids learn ONE subject – all of the kids attend a regular school from 9am-2pm, and then come to Reading Town from 3pm-8ish. And then most kids go home to music lessons. And to think I complained about 8:30am lectures …But in all their discipline, they still somehow find time to be kids [and make Susie Teacher laugh]. Last week I was checking a student’s homework, and he had innocently written “I feed on hores” as his homework sentence [I think he meant “I feed the horse”, but once again, your call]. It’s pretty impossible to not like this job, and equally as impossible to lose a smile.

4. Korean food is delicious. [true]
Last weekend, Julie & I went to a “sushi train” with our boss, his wife, and some coworkers. There’s all different kinds of sushi and it’s literally on a train – you sit in front of it and just grab what you like off the conveyor belt as it passes. And I really couldn’t think of a more appropriate way to serve raw food – it seems only natural for it to be moving in front of you. But when you’re on board the train and your boss asks if you like tuna, take a good, solid look at your surroundings and be reminded of where you are. Replying, “I love tuna!” will only get you a slab of inch-thick raw flesh and a relentless craving for any food that doesn’t feel alive in your mouth.

Last night we went to an “all-you-can-eat, all-you-can-drink” place that served kalbi. The premise is simple: You pick the meat, you cook the meat. You thirsty, you drink. Two hours later, not finished yet? You kicked out. But you definitely do get your money’s worth, though, and the food is amazing. Best meal yet, and it’s already on the “to do” list for you visitors.

Anybody that does end up visiting will be highly impressed with our new apartment. The rooms are fairly large and we’ve already set to work decorating the entire place with a little Korean/Canadian flavour [see attached pics]. We’ve even got a cute little balcony that will serve us well come summer.

As for me, I’m still waiting for this all to sink in. Today was the first time I’ve looked at a map since I’ve been here, but instead of making me feel far away, it only reminded me of how connected I still feel. And I can’t help thinking of The Motorcycle Diaries’ quote, “Is it possible to feel nostalgia for a place you’ve never been?” Maybe it is.

I guess the only thing unsettling about this whole experience is knowing that one day, it will be a memory …

So I think to myself, what a wonderful world …

four funerals & a wedding

2007-11-02T00:40:00.000+09:00

… Because no trek into unknown territory would be complete without at least a few casualties…

The first funeral: Nemo. Julie and I have learned that you can order the same lunch every day from the same server at the same restaurant, yet find consistent inconsistency with the accompanying dishes. Never a dull moment at the table. Last week they must've drained the tank at our usual lunch place, because our ‘bee bee bop’ [Korean rice dish] was served with a side of guppies alongside the staple kimchi. Yes, guppies. Pet fish! Naturally, we picked out our favourite & named him Nemo. And then Julie ate him. So, we found Nemo and then he found himself a cozy little home in Julie's tummy. Once again, our effortless logic comforted us: She figured we were already enjoying the caviar - might as well skip the middle man and head straight for the damn fish. Farewell, fishy…

And I really do wish these stories got better before they got worse. But the next night, our entire staff went out for dinner in honour of the arrival of two fantastic, over-qualified Canadian teachers [guess who]. But at this dinner our Korean secretary Mi Young – cute, trustworthy Mi Young – confessed she had let me eat a chicken heart the night before. Wait – “let” seems too passive; she encouraged me to eat the chicken heart. She told me “eat this, eat!” and I, foolish foreigner, blindly obeyed. Scarier yet, apparently I [heart] heart. Who knew?!?

But food isn’t the only risky business in Korea – everything is an adventure. But everything has a price, including [especially?] frozen, desperate stupidity. Stranded in Suwon after shopping in Gangnam, Seoul, any other duo might’ve relied on instinct to see the danger inherent in accepting a ride from a stranger in a foreign country … But we were cold, lost, and our consciences were preoccupied with visions of heated floors. So, yeah, we accepted a ride from a random Korean [who was no longer a stranger after introducing herself as “Lee”]. Turns out the only danger in accepting Lee’s goodwill was our own absent-mindedness …. Funeral #3 was reserved for the valuable item that drove away from us in the back of Lee’s car. Whoops. But one good deed preludes another [right?] and we’re hopeful the item will be returned, sentiments intact. Worst case scenario, we could always try to track down our “Lee” from the 10 million that reside in Korea …

Speaking of Korean names ... Before I left, I was so scared I’d walk into a classroom and be expected to learn a hundred three-word Korean names. As it turns out, all the kids have adopted American names – I’ve got a Conan, a Jasper, and a ton of Brians and Henrys. In one class I actually had to give a student an English name [I suggested “Vern” but they didn’t go for it … sorry]. For the most part, the kids are well-behaved …except for that one student who called me “ugly” and “fat” on two consecutive occasions. Turns out “Teacher Susie” converts automatically into “Mean Teacher Susie” when the situation arises …But I’ve got red pen on my hands, stickers in my pocket, and a confiscated elastic band around my wrist … And I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

What I just might trade for the world, however, is a bedroom. So, the fourth and final funeral is actually both welcome and overdue. This weekend, Julie and I will finally bid adieu to our two-bed one-bedroom apartment in favour of a bigger place nearby. Julie really is the best roommate I could’ve asked for, but living and working side by side every single day while living out of a suitcase inevitably and eventually takes its toll ...

Farewells aside, it’s time for the best part of this email: The wedding! My sister is getting married!!! [Congrats again Marsha & Scott!] And, thankfully, the pigs offer International flights out of Seoul quite frequently…

I think that’s it, for now [aside from Soju-induced silliness that I’ll spare you all from]. Stay tuned for more pictures, more food horror stories, and funny quotes from Korean kids.

Oh – and absence makes the heart grow fonder. Really.

seoul sisters

2007-11-02T00:38:00.000+09:00

Anyoungassayo! [That’s phonetic Korean for ‘hello’!]

So you want to know what Korea is like, huh? At least that seems to be the popular question these last 3 days ...

Let's start with the first building we saw in Korea: Our apartment. Instead of the two-bedroom they'd promised us, Julie & I were confined to a very modest one bedroom apartment that pretty much resembles a hotel room. The one-bedroom we could deal with - the one bed, on the other hand ... The Director had offered us an actual hotel room for the night in lieu of sharing the one bed - but after traveling for over 28 hours, spooning with Julie well was a welcome alternative to getting back into a car & heading someplace else. Me being the generous friend that I am, I let Julie sleep on the floor and I took the bed [relax, the floors are heated & she did actually have a good sleep].And things are looking up: On Thursday our new bed was delivered [how the delivery guy managed to remove his shoes before he entered while carrying that mattress, I'll never know - but it just goes to show you how faithful Koreans are to the no-shoe rule]. So now we can [happily?] say we are living in a two-bed one-bedroom apartment ... Thank god for Laurier rez, first year, and the resulting reassurance that living together in these close quarters won't be the end of our friendship [or one of our lives]. We only have to stay here for two weeks, and then we move into a bigger two-bedroom apartment.

Next up: The bathroom. We didn't even think we had a shower, until we noticed the nozzle above our bathroom sink. The bathroom is our shower, turns out - so when we shower, everything in our bathroom gets wet. But that's ok - at this point, we'll just take hot water. Please. But at least the cold water situation explains the rumour about Asian men

...And the food! After our very first lunch with the school's secretary [cool Korean, our age], Julie & I were convinced we would fall in love with the food here …Until dinner. Ordering off an all-Korean menu meant dinner basically turned into a guessing game [with fingers crossed], and we ended up with what Julie described as "the most anxious meal of her life". After I set aside something resembling a tongue [after eating that ox tongue in TO I feel confident with that assumption], I picked up this hard-boiled egg that was the size of my palm. We were both convinced it was something other than an incredible edible egg. She made me cut into it, swearing there was going to be a teradactyl-like creature inside. I guess in our jet-lagged delirium we had discarded all natural logic and assumed discovering something prehistoric in our food was not only possible, but highly likely. [Equally as ridiculous was my disappointment that it was just an egg.] That night we both woke up from nightmares at the exact same time … weird. Note to selves: Avoid spicy mystery food.

Yesterday's lunch was a lil' better, albeit fish-themed. We’re pretty much living by the saying “What you don’t know, won’t hurt you” … Although the caviar mixed right in to our stir fry thingy and the shrimp were sweet & tasty [once you picked off their eyes]. Who wants kisses?!?!Last night we joined our Director for dinner at a restaurant where we actually sat on the floor to eat while we listened to our friend tell us stories of the live octopus he ate the night before. He said it squirms even after you have chopped it up, and you have to chew the tentacles extra well so they don’t latch on to your throat & choke you on the way down. Mmm.

As for the school - it's amazing. It's modern, high-tech, and kinda resembles a scene from Vanilla Sky. The students are adorable and their English is amazing [and they're all convinced Julie & I are the other teachers' girlfriends]. One of the secretaries has already told Julie she has "friend, introduce" - which we should all interpret to mean that Julie will be catching the Fever earlier than expected ...

The other teachers are pretty cool too. We're proud to say one of the nicest of the bunch is a guy that hails from Kdub - a UofW grad. 'Tis a small world, after all … Small it may be, but it really is a whole other world over here …

Today’s agenda: Tackling the E-Mart [a multi-level Walmart type thing where Koreans shout at you at the end of every aisle]. We’re most likely heading to Seoul for New Year’s, and possibly meeting up with my sister in Tokyo next weekend. Life is good.Stay tuned for New Year’s pics and updates on our first day of teaching [Tuesday].Till then, missing you all & wishing you the best. Happy New Year!

Anyoungassayo [conveniently also ‘goodbye’ in Korean!]

2007-11-02T00:30:00.001+09:00

picture.